| Art Deco Umbrella Stand -- Book-Matched Maple Panels |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-302 |
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With the frame elements made, work can now begin on the stock for the side panels. In our demonstration, the side panels were made from curly maple, which exhibits a distinctive figured grain pattern.
Materials: Maple stock
MDF for template
Band saw
Table saw
Biscuit joiner
Power sander
Jointer
Yellow wood-glue
Glue roller
Clamps
Band-clamps
Hand-scraper; sandpaper
Carpenter's pencil or chalk
Carpenter's tape
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his website -- information below under Resources. Safety alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Three-Way, Book-Matched Maple Panels
- Begin by cutting the maple stock into 3/16" sheets using the band saw (figure A). Three sheets are required for each of the four framed panels.
- Once cut to size, run the stock through power sander to remove the saw marks and bring them to their final thickness of 3/16" (figure B).
- Use a cabinetmaker's mark on the edges of the re-sawn stock (figure C) to help keep the pieces in order and achieve a consistent and matched grain pattern. This will assist as the pieces are laid out for a three-way book match.
- Once the pieces are laid out to create the book-matched pattern, mark the faces of the panels with a reference triangle (figure D).
- Joint the edges (figure E) to create smooth right angles.
- Once the edges have been jointed smooth, glue-up can begin. Apply yellow woodworker's glue to the edges using a glue roller.
- Tip: To save time, clamp the three panel pieces together so that glue can be applied to three edges at once (figure F).
- Align the pieces, using the triangle on the faces as reference.
- Clamp the pieces securely (figure G), and let them dry for a few hours.
- Once the panels are dry, remove any excess glue with some hand-scraping and sanding.
- Using the measurements from the original drawing, create a cutting template for the side panels from 1/8" MDF (figure H). The template should be about 3/16" oversized on each side to accommodate the dado. Trace the shape of the template onto the glued maple panels.
- Use the band-saw to cut out the shape (figure I), being careful to cut the tapers close to the lines.
- After a dry-fit (figure J) and final sanding, work can begin on gluing up the frame and panel.
- Apply yellow glue into the mortises and onto the loose tenons (figure K).
- Also apply a small amount of glue into the dado on the top and bottom rails to hold the panel in place. Gluing up in this way will hold the panel secure in the frame, while allowing the wood panels to expand and contract across their width with changes in atmospheric humidity.
- With glue applied, assemble and clamp the frame and panel assembly securely as the glue dries (figure L). It's a good idea to let the frames dry for at least 2 hours, at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Tip: The trickiest part of this glue-up is dealing with the angles of the frames. To square up the top and bottom rails, making the frame easier to clamp up, create some wood cawls cut with 7-1/2 degree angles.
- Repeat these steps for the other three sides (figure M). To simplify the assemblies, have all of the elements -- for assembly of all four sides -- already cut and ready to assemble.
Assembly of the Side Pieces With all four frames complete, the next major step is to angle-cut the edges at 45 degrees so that the four sides can be joined together to form a square.
- Set the table-saw blade to 45 degrees, and install an extension fence to support the sides of the frame (figure N).
- When making the cuts, be certain that the blue tape (applied earlier to indicate the face) faces toward the fence. Because of the long cut, a fingerboard helps ensure that the frame is held securely against the fence as the cut is made (figure O ). The result is a 45-degree angle cut along one side (figure P).
- Turn the frame around, making certain that the face of the stock (with the blue tape) is against the fence, and make the second cut.
- Once both sides of the frame have been mitered, the next step is to cut the slots for the biscuit joinery. Because the frames are angled, the fence on the biscuit joiner must be set to 45 degrees to match the angle of the frames (figure Q). To avoid cutting through the stock, a number-zero biscuit is used, and the slot is offset toward the inside of the frame.
- Cut eight slots for the biscuits in each frame: four on each side.
- The final step before glue-up of the four frames is to cut a rabbet for the bottom panel. The panel itself (figure R) is cut from a piece of 1/2" maple plywood, and is 7-7/8" square. Cut a 7-1/2 degree angle on the edges of the panel to match the angle of the frames.
- At the table saw, make the first cut in the frame using a fingerboard to hold the stock firmly against the fence (figure S). To make the cut, the blade height is set to 7/16" and 90 degrees.
- Next, make the second cut -- on all four panels -- with the blade tilted to 7-1/2 degrees and raised to 5/16" (figure T).
- Now the elements can be glued up to form the complete assembly. Add yellow glue to each of the slots and to the biscuits (figure U).
- Then add glue to the edges, assemble the pieces and stand the assembly upright for clamping (figure V). Use several band-clamps to achieve adequate clamping pressure.
- Because of the steep angle, band clamps may slide. Use double-stick tape on the corners to help hold the band-clamps secure. Tighten the clamps into position, one at a time, to get even pressure around the frames.
- Finally, add some cawls and bar-clamps to provide downward clamping pressure and further stabilize the assembly as the glue dries.
In the segment that follows, the base is made from purple heart using compound-angle cuts.
Sponsored Resource
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RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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