DIY Woodworking host Bruce Johnson describes how to build a traditional cherry blanket chest based on early American and Shaker styles. Note: Project Plans available using  Materials: Select cherry lumber
1/4" plywood
Circular saw or table saw
Jointer
Clean cloth
Router
Biscuit joiner and wooden biscuits
Saber saw
Drill
Bar clamps or pipe clamps
Woodworker's glue
Optional: drafting paper
Power sander
Optional: rubber mallet
Wood screws
1/2" washers
Hinges
Optional: wood stain
Optional: palm sander
Tack cloth
Tung oil or wipe-on polyurethane varnish
Protective eyeglasses and ear protection
Preparing the Framework Cherry, a durable hardwood, is a good choice for a blanket chest because it's stable and doesn't tend to warp or crack. Its subtle grain gives cherry furniture a more sophisticated look than that made of pine or oak.
Early blanket chests were called "six-board chests," referring to the six main boards forming the side panels and the top and bottom. You probably won't be able to find boards wide enough for the main pieces (in this example, the side pieces are 22 1/2" wide), so the first step is to cut and glue cherry boards to create panels of the proper dimensions. Begin by cutting each board, using a handsaw or a table saw, slightly longer than its final length (figure A). Run the edges of each board through a jointer set to remove about 1/16" of wood (figure B) to ensure a tight fit between boards.
Arrange the boards in their planned positions, and make marks across the joints about every 6" to 10" to indicate the placement of biscuit joints. Clamp the first board securely, then use a biscuit joiner to cut slots in the edge of the board at each mark (figure C). Do the same for the adjoining board.
Apply woodworker's glue in each slot and along the board's edge, and insert the biscuits (figure D). Lay the boards in position, and push them together (figure E).
Clamp the boards, making sure the pencil marks align. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth. Let the panels dry.
Once the glue has dried, cut each panel to the required length with a circular saw. Allowing for the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade (figure F) , measure and clamp a straight piece of wood to act as a temporary fence to ensure straight cuts. Keep the saw snug against the wooden guide as you make each cut (figure G).
Now draw and cut the decorative front apron (also called a toe board) and sides. One technique for creating a design is to use a piece of paper with a grid of 1" squares drawn on. Using a pattern from a photograph--or a design of your own--draw a template on the grid paper. Cut out the pattern with scissors, and trace it onto the board.
Clamp the board securely, and cut out the design with a saber saw (figure H) . Sand any rough edges by hand or with a power sander.
Assembling the Chest This chest's special features include lap joints that hold the main elements together, a bottom drawer for extra storage, and a top fitted with special battens to guard against warping. The sides of the chest are attached with a lap joint, one characteristic of the period in which such chests were first made. To create a lap joint for attaching the panels, cut a 1/2" notch along each end of the back and front panels (figure I) with a table saw or a router.
If you're using a router, clamp a straight piece of wood to act as a fence so that the notch is straight and even. Make several shallow passes with the router rather than attempting to cut the notch in a single pass.
Use the router to cut shallow slots on the inside of each side panel for the plywood dividers that go above and below the bottom drawer. The slots should be as wide as the plywood you're using is thick. After measuring for proper locations for the dividers, adjust the router bit to a depth of 1/4", and use two clamped pieces of wood to serve as guides for your cut (figure J).
Once you've cut the slots, take careful measurements for the precise dimensions of the plywood dividers. (In this example, each divider is 18 1/2" wide and 34 1/2" long). Use cherry plywood, or--because the dividers won't readily be seen in the finished piece--substitute a less expensive wood such as maple-faced plywood. To begin assembling the chest, lay the back panel on 2" by 4" scraps to raise it above your work surface and clamps. Apply a bead of glue the length of each slot, and insert the dividers (figure K), gently tapping them into place with a rubber mallet if necessary.
Apply glue to the slots in each of the side panels and along the notches in the ends of the back piece. Position the end panels in the notches on the back piece, making sure the plywood dividers slip into their slots. Slide bar clamps into position, and apply just enough pressure to hold the sides against the back (figure L).
Apply glue along the top edge of the plywood and along the edges of the end panels that will be covered by the front panel and front apron. Slip the front panel into place (figure M), making sure it's flush with the top of the chest and in line with the plywood divider on the bottom. Slide the apron into place. Place clamps over the front panel and toe board, applying just enough pressure to make them snug (figure N).
With the framework assembled and clamped snugly, stand it upright and wipe off excess glue. Make sure the structure is square by measuring the span of the diagonals, which should be identical in length. If the framework isn't square, adjust it by altering the pressure on the clamps. Add more clamps as needed to ensure good contact at all of the joints. Before the glue dries, drive finish nails in a few key places (figure O) to strengthen the joints. Later you can fill the nail holes with wood putty and tint it to match the cherry.
Because the top of the chest is wide and not permanently fixed, it could warp. Battens attached to the underside of the lid (figure P) will help prevent that. The battens' length should be slightly less than the depth of the lid so they won't interfere with its closing.
Use scraps left over from constructing the framework, or substitute a less expensive wood, as the battens will show only when the lid is open. With the lid upside down, determine the placement of the two battens, centering them on the underside an equal distance from the front and the back. Mark the placement with a pencil.
Nailing or gluing the battens to the underside of the lid could create problems. Fluctuations in humidity cause wood to expand and contract slightly, and rigidly fixed battens that restrict that expansion might cause the lid to crack. To prevent such problems, the battens are attached with special fasteners that allow them to move slightly to accommodate expansion and contraction of the wood. Drill four holes 1/2" in diameter and about 3/8" deep in the top of each batten. Then switch to a 3/8" bit, and drill a smaller hole in the center of each larger hole (figure Q). Place a 1/2" washer in each 1/2" hole, then insert a screw long enough to attach the batten to the top. With the battens aligned with the pencil marks, and using the washer centers as guides, drill 1/8" pilot holes into the lid. Attach the battens to the lid with screws.
To attach the lid to the framework, measure and mark the desired locations for two hinges on the inside of the back. Use a sharp chisel to cut out recesses so that the hinges may be mounted flush with the wood (figure R). Do the same at corresponding locations on the underside of the lid. Attach the hinges with screws.
Building the Drawer The last step in assembling the chest in to build the drawer--a task left till the end so precise measurements can be taken to ensure that the drawer fits exactly. Cut the cherry drawer front to the proper dimensions, and run it across the jointer to smooth the edges. Cut 1-3/4" notches in each end of the drawer front to allow room for the drawer sides to be attached and to allow the lip of the drawer to overlap the sides as the front panel does.
The drawer's sides and back won't show, so they may be made from cherry or a less expensive wood. Cut them to the proper dimensions, and then cut 1/4" slots in the side pieces for the plywood drawer bottom to slide into.
Begin assembling the drawer by applying a line of glue to each notch of the drawer front and positioning the side pieces (figure S). Secure the side pieces with finish nails. Apply a small amount of glue on each end of the back, and slip it into place, securing it with finish nails (figure T).
Slide the plywood drawer bottom into the groove cut into the interior of the drawer (figure U), but do not glue it. Secure the drawer bottom to the back with a single finish nail in the center. Determine whether the drawer is square by taking diagonal measurements from corner to corner. The two diagonals should be identical.
Once you've assembled the drawer, attach drawer pulls (figure V). Although the exact placement is a matter of taste, it's best to center the knobs between the top and the bottom of the drawer front. Wooden pulls are probably the most appropriate for a piece of this style.
Finishing Touches The nails used on the exterior of the piece can be concealed with wood dough. Wood dough, which is applied to raw wood, hardens and may later be stained along with the rest of the piece. Don't confuse it with wood putty, a soft filler used on pieces that are already finished. Pack a small amount of wood dough into the holes. After it dries, sand the hardened dough flush with the wood surface. In preparation for staining or finishing, use a medium-grade sandpaper such as 180-grit to smooth rough edges and remove marks or smudges. Coarser sandpaper may cause visible scratches in cherry's subtle grain. For an antique look, use a palm sander to soften the edges and corners of the piece (figure W). If you'd prefer the piece to look new, a light hand-sanding is probably sufficient. Wipe off any wood dust with a tack cloth.
Because cherry has an attractive natural color, many people choose to leave it unstained. If you'd prefer to stain the piece, a light staining, applied with a clean rag and wiped off immediately, will sufficiently highlight the grain. Either way, you must apply a finish--otherwise the attractive cherry will soon appear dry and dirty. To create the look of a hand-rubbed finish, use tung oil or a wipe-on polyurethane. Rub on only a small amount with each application, but expect to apply four or five coats to create a protective finish.
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| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Blanket Chest |
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