| Cod, the Perfect Food for Lent |
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By Mary Miller
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette Those who grew up with baccala on their Lenten or Christmas dinner tables talk about salt cod almost like a dear family member about whom they have warm, wonderful memories. For those who have never tried it, it might be time to make a memory. Cod is lean with a mild flavor. Because of over-fishing, many times seafood described as cod on low to moderately priced restaurant menus is often another type of mild whitefish such as haddock. Scrod, by the way, is officially cod that is small, 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 pounds, but some full-grown codfish can weigh up to 25 pounds. Called baccala in Italian, bacalao in Spanish, bacalhau in Portuguese, morue in French, or just plain salt cod in English, this saline treat is nothing more than codfish fillets that have been cured in salt and then dried. Not to be outdone by their southern neighbors, the Norwegians have a similar product called stockfish, which is dried unsalted cod, and yet another culinary treat is lutefisk, which is codfish that has been dried and soaked in lye. It makes regular salt cod sound good. In reality, although briny, dehydrated and slightly malodorous at the market, when soaked in water the fillets lose much of their saltiness and the flesh becomes firm and slightly chewy without a strong fish taste, the perfect basis for fish stews, cod cakes, fritters and more. In his beautifully written book, Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World, author Mark Kurlansky writes that, according to legend, cod once was so thick in the area called the Grand Banks off Newfoundland that sailors could actually walk on the fish to get to the shore. The Viking explorers were the first to find these fertile seas, and as far as we know, the first to dry cod. These early travelers survived because they learned to preserve this fish and, according to Kurlansky, "They could break off pieces, and chew them, like hardtack." Salt cod was the perfect food for early sailors not only because it was high in protein and easy to eat, but also because it took up little space on the ship and could last a long time without spoiling because of its low fat content. In medieval Spain and throughout Europe, the Catholic Church prohibited eating flesh on certain fast days. Included were Fridays, since Christ was crucified on this day, the 40 days of Lent and other days of special religious significance. When tallied, these fasting days -- called lean days -- totaled almost one half of the days in the year. Cold foods were permitted on these days. Fish, waterfowl and whale were designated cold foods by the Catholic Church, since they came out of water. Kurlansky says, "those lean days eventually became salt cod days. Cod became almost a religious icon, a mythological crusader for Christian observance." Most salt cod today comes from Norway and Canada, but supposedly the best still comes from off the coast of Labrador. "When buying salt cod, look for uniform texture and color; avoid pieces with a yellowish tint," says Martha Rose Shulman, cookbook author and chef. The salt cod that is skinless and boneless is easier to handle than that with bones and skin, and the thicker pieces from the middle of the fish are usually better. Often found in Italian, Greek or Portuguese markets and at some larger grocery chains, salt cod is usually displayed in its opened wooden shipping crates. Avoid purchasing salt cod that is packed in plastic bags. The dried fish must be soaked before cooking to remove the salt. Shulman says that "desalted cod has a more interesting flavor and texture than fresh cod, almost like ham compared to fresh pork." Sources disagree on the length of time for soaking, anywhere from eight hours to three days. A lengthy soaking has proven helpful for removing most of the salty taste from the fish, but others feel that this long soaking removes too much flavor. Whatever the soaking time, the method is the same. Cut the cod filets into chunks and put them into a large bowl. Cover the bowl with cold water. Change the water at least four times a day. Old timers will say that it does not need to be refrigerated, but the general consensus is to keep the cod-filled bowl cold. After the fillets have been soaked and drained, the fish should feel soft and pliable, with only a taste of brininess. For cod cakes, fritters and purees, poach the fish before using. Salt cod doubles in weight after soaking. The difference between cod, pollock, haddock and scrod can be confusing. All of these fish are part of the same family, but cod has the whitest flesh.
Baccala Alla Napoletana I got this recipe from my hair stylist, Emilio. We both were raised in Italian families where baccala was served on special days. One of Emilio's staff at Izzazu International Salon in Pittsburgh, Fortunata DeMicco, gave us this delicious family recipe. Ingredients: 2-1/2 lbs. salt cod, soaked and drained
1 cup flour
Oil for frying
5 Tbs. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 lb. ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
4 tsp. capers, chopped
20 large black olives, pitted and chopped
Salt and pepper Preparation: Cut the cod into 2-inch squares. Place flour in a bowl or pie plate. Wipe the cod squares dry with a paper towel and coat lightly with the flour. Deep fry in 1 inch of hot oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and keep hot in a baking dish in a low oven. In a deep skillet, heat the 5 tablespoons of olive oil and saute the garlic until brown. Discard the garlic from the pan; add tomatoes, capers and olives. Season lightly with salt and generously with pepper. Stir well and cook over a brisk heat for 15 minutes. Pour over the cod. Cover the dish and bake in a low (300-degree) oven for 20 minutes or until hot.
Baccala Salad This great spring and summer recipe comes to us by way of Mary Jo Capizzi, who's in charge of public relations at The Steelhead Grille in Pittsburgh. A big fan of salt cod, Mary Jo obtained this recipe from her mother, Isabel Gaetano Leindecker. Ingredients: 1/2 lb. salt cod, soaked and drained
1 whole clove garlic
2 to 3 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
16 whole cured black olives
1/2 tsp. black pepper
Crushed red pepper flakes Preparation: Place presoaked codfish in a medium saucepan, add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 3 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Do not overcook. Drain. Mix whole garlic, whole olives and black pepper with olive oil. Toss flaked cod with garlic mixture and let sit for a half hour before serving. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes, if desired. Serve cold or at room temperature with crusty Italian bread. Serves: 2 to 4, depending on serving size.
Provencal Salt Cod and Potato Puree Recipe by Martha Rose Shulman in Fine Cooking, January 2001.
Ingredients: 1 lb. salt cod, soaked and patted dry
2 medium onions, quartered
7 large cloves garlic, 3 halved and 4 minced
2 bay leaves
12 oz. waxy potatoes, peeled and quartered
2/3 cup milk
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
3/4 tsp. coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste Preparation: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Oil a small (4-cup) gratin dish. In a medium saucepan, combine 2 quarts water with the onions, the halved garlic and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, add the salt cod and cover the pot tightly. Turn off the heat and let the fish sit in the water just until it can be pulled apart with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the fish from the water and set the water aside for cooking the potatoes. When the fish is cool enough to handle, pick out any bones and remove any skin. Flake the fish by rubbing it between your fingers or using a fork or wooden spoon. Transfer to a food processor. Meanwhile, simmer the potatoes until very tender in the water in which you cooked the fish. Drain the potatoes and mash with a hand masher or ricer. Add 1/3 cup of the milk and 1/4 cup of the olive oil to the potatoes and combine well. Set aside. In a saucepan, heat another 1/4 cup of the oil over medium low and add the minced garlic. The instant the garlic begins to sizzle, remove the pan from the heat. Add the garlic and oil, along with the salt, to the salt cod in the processor. Combine the remaining 1/3 cup milk and 1/4 cup oil. Turn on the processor and add the milk and olive oil mixture in a slow stream. Continue to process until the mixture is fluffy. Add the salt cod puree to the potato mixture and fold to combine well. Season with pepper. Spoon the mixture into the gratin dish, drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil and bake until the top begins to brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot. Serves: 8 as a first course, 4 to 6 as a side dish.
Salt Cod Cakes This recipe is a New England way to use salt cod by renowned Boston-area chef Jasper White. 1 lb. boneless salt cod
2 medium russet potatoes, peeled
7 Tbs. butter
1/2 small yellow onion, peeled and minced
1 tsp. dry mustard
2 to 4 dashes Worcestershire sauce
1 whole egg and yolks from 3 eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbs. olive oil
Flour Preparation: Soak cod in a large bowl of cold water for 6 to 9 hours, changing water 2 to 3 times. Drain. Put potatoes into a pot of cold water and cook over medium-high heat until tender, about 40 minutes. Drain, then mash with a potato ricer or masher; set aside. Put cod into a medium pot of water, bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 5 minutes. Drain well, then break fish into flakes. Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and cook until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Combine onions, potatoes, cod, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and eggs in a medium bowl. Season to taste with pepper, shape into 8 cakes and chill. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter and oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Dredge cod cakes in flour, shaking off excess, and cook until golden, about 5 minutes per side. Note: This modernized version of the classic pureed cod dish has the addition of potatoes to the puree. It is luscious and creamy and can be served as an appetizer with bread slices or as a side dish. Serves: 8
(For news and information about Pittsburgh visit www.post-gazette.com/. Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service.)
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