Materials:Madil Kid Seta yarn, 230 yd. per skein, color #288 (Roseberry).
crochet hook, US size K/6.50mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)
steel crochet hook, US size 10/1.30mm for applying beads
2 tubes of size-6 hexagonal beads, color #401 (black) (approximately 550 beads)
beading needle with large eye
Gauge: 4 squares = 4" (gauge is flexible for this project)
Finished size: 52" wide at top; 24" from top center to point at bottom center
Note: The wrap is worked on the diagonal, starting at the bottom point.
1. Attach yarn to K hook with a sl st and then ch 6.
2. For the first row block: Sk the first 3 ch; then work 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook and then into each of next 2 ch as well. Make a total of 4 dc (including turning ch ).
3. For the second row of blocks: Ch 6 more. Work 1 dc in 4th, 5th and 6th ch from hook. Flip up the first block so the dc are perpendicular to the ones you just made (the ch may look twisted, but this is okay). Sl st into the sp below the top of the dc to connect the blocks.
4. Place a bead on the smaller hook. Remove the larger hook from work. With the smaller hook, pull the st through the bead. Now remove the smaller hook and put the larger one back to continue from this place. Ch 3 (this counts as a dc). 3 dc into sp below the top dc where you made the sl st. Make two blocks on this row, for a total of 3 blocks.
Tip: On the row just completed, a right-side row, there will be 1 bead. The next row, a wrong-side row, has no beads. The row after that will have 3 beads. Two beads are added (one at each end) on every subsequent right-side row. The first and last block in each right-side row do not have beads, but the rest of the blocks do. After every sl st, it is time to apply a bead. Check your work at the end of each beaded row to make sure you did not skip any spots where there should be a bead.
5. For the third row of blocks: Ch 6. Work 1 dc in 4rth, 5th and 6th ch from the hook. Flip up the completed 3 blocks so the dc are alongside and perpendicular to the ones you just made (the ch may look twisted, but this is okay).
5. Now sl st into the sp below the top dc in the adjoining block. Ch 3 (this counts as a dc). 3 dc into the sp below the top dc where you made the sl st. Repeat this pattern until reaching the end of row.
6. For the fourth row of blocks: Ch 6. Work 1 dc in 4th, 5th and 6th ch. Flip up the completed blocks so the dc st are perpendicular to the ones you just made (the ch may look twisted, but this is okay). Work 5 sl st into the sp below the top dc in the adjoining block. Apply bead. Ch 3 (this counts as a dc). 3 dc into sp below the top dc where you made the sl st. Repeat in this pattern until the end. You should have 3 beads on this row.
7. Repeat 3rd and 4th row, increasing as you go, reaching approximately 35 rows total. End with a wrong-side (no bead) row. If you want the wrap to be larger, simply continue to add rows until you reach the desired size. Do not fasten off.
Prestring approximately 300 beads.Row 1: With wrong side facing, ch 1. Work evenly spaced sc down one side to reach the point of the V shape and up the other side. There are approximately 176 st total. Do not st around the top edge of the triangle.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn.
Ch 3 and slip 3 beads close to hook. Ch 1 to join beads, then ch 3 more. Sk 1 sc, then work 1 sc in the next available sc . Repeat this pattern down the side, around the point and then up the other side. Fasten off.
As a finishing touch weave in ends and block gently, if desired.
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.diynetwork.com/DIY/2007/01/26/duct222_3ca_e.jpg",350,450))
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.diynetwork.com/DIY/2007/01/26/duct222_3cb_e.jpg",350,450))
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.diynetwork.com/DIY/2007/01/26/duct222_3cc_e.jpg",350,450))
