| Etching Metal |
| Visit DIY's Craft Lab to learn how to etch metal and create a pet name plate. |
From "Craft Lab" episode DCLB-233 |
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Guest Steven James joins host Jennifer Perkins and demonstrates how to etch metal and create a pet name plate.
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 Guest Steve James reveals the techniques for etching and enameling metal so you can create your own unique personalized dog tag, as seen here. The template is below.
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 Figure A
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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 Figure D
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 Your pet will be the coolest animal on the block with his or her own name plate!
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Etching MetalProject designed by Steven James. Materials: 16-gauge copper blank: belt buckle size plastic container never metal ferric chloride clear packing tape acetate sheet (transparency) household iron safety glasses latex gloves acetone ammonia oil-based paint pen Klyr-fire (enamel bonding agent found at craft supply stores) - Create the image you wish to etch using a desktop publishing program. The image should be converted into an image with crisp outlines and contract or print the tattoo template (above, right).
- Print the image directly onto acetate film using a laser printer.
- Put on rubber gloves to thoroughly clean the copper sheet with copper cleaner and acetone. Alternate with these solutions until the copper is clean and free of oils or grime.
- Dry the copper, next position the acetate film onto the copper (toner side) down (figure A) and place a blank sheet of paper over the film.
- Place the hot iron (set on cotton linen, non-steam) onto the paper and use firm pressure to transfer the image to the copper.
- Carefully check to see if the design has transferred, if not continue to iron. Once transferred, allow to cool the metal will be hot!
- Once cool, remove the transfer and check for bare areas in the design. Use the oil-based paint pen for touch-ups (figure B).
Note: You must paint the edge of the metal to prevent it from being eaten by the acid. - Apply packing tape to the back of the copper sheet to act as a resist to the acid, cut additional piece longer than the container width and apply it to the back of the copper sheet.
- With rubber gloves and safety glasses on, carefully submerge the metal, transfer side down, into the ferric chloride bath (available at scientific and chemical supply stores). The etching action takes place on the surface of the acid.
- The longer the metal sits in the acid, the more the metal is etched. If the ferric chloride is new, it will "bite" at the metal much faster.
- Check the progress of the etching after the first 30 minutes, place the metal back into the acid and continue to process the metal.
- Once the metal is properly etched, carefully remove the metal and quickly wash in water, clean and neutralize the acid by soaking it in ammonia for 10 minutes.
Safety Tip: Be sure to work in a well ventilated area and place significant distance between the ammonia bath and the ferric chloride. Consider having them in separate rooms. - It is crucial that the surface of the copper is completely cleaned of all ferric chloride before it is fired in the kiln.
- Use the two-hole punch (figure C) to create two small holes on the opposite ends of the design. The holes should be positioned about 1/4" away from the edge of the design.
- To apply the powder, you will use an 80-mesh screen sifter. Apply a thin layer of Klyr-fire to the surface of the metal. It is not always necessary, but if the metal is curved in any way, it helps to prevent the enamel powders from coming off the metal.
- Sift the enamel onto the surface of the metal, working in from the middle out to the edge and in a circular motion.
- Cover the entire area with a consistent amount of enamel.
- Carefully place the copper onto the trivet, use a small pair of tweezers if necessary to lift up the copper without disturbing the enamel.
- Once on the trivet, place the trivet on the firing rack/plate and use the kiln fork to pick up the plate.
Tip: Carefully position the kiln fork underneath the plate, as seen here (figure D). - To prepare it for enameling, set the kiln at full speed, set the temperature at 1400 to 1500 degrees and hold the temperature for at least three to five minutes. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions regarding the enameling features for other kilns.
- Once the piece is properly fired, remove it carefully (with a metal tool, not gloves) and place in a pickle bath (a sodium bicarbonate solution Sparex) in order to prevent the enamel from cracking. The solution is prepared in many different ways, depending on the amount used. Refer to the package to determine the appropriate amount to use for the project.
Note: Quickly open the kiln door, remembering the longer it's open the more heat is lost. - Once the enamel has fully fused, the surface of the metal appears glossy and smooth. Use the kiln fork to carefully remove the plate and place it on a heat resistant surface.
- Allow the project to completely cool before cleaning the fire scale from the front of the design. Place the project in a water bath to remove some of the loose fire scale.
- Allow the project to completely cool before cleaning the fire scale from the front the front of the design. Place the project in a water bath to remove some of the loose fire scale.
- With rubber gloves, carefully clean the front of the project with the Sparex and an old toothbrush, paper towels or sponge.
- Thoroughly clean the front of the project with copper cleaner until the copper is clean, free of oils or grime and water "sheets" on the surface.
Note: Sparex is an acid containing Sodium Bisulfate and while some people might find that it is gentle enough to use without gloves, if you have cuts or sensitive skin, use caution when working with Sparex.
RESOURCES :
Enameling Supplies and Tools
Schlaifer's Enameling Supplies
Website: www.enameling.com
Paragon SC-2 Programmable Kiln
Clay King
Website: www.clay-king.com
Etchant Solution (Ferric Chloride)
Radio Shack stores
Website: www.radioshack.com
GUESTS :
Steven James
Phone: 415-992-1479
E-mail: stevenjames@macaroniandglitter.com
Website: www.macaroniandglitter.com
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