| Fish Finder: Flush Mounting the Display Screen/Monitor |
From "Shipshape Boating"
episode DSSB-111 |
|
|
|
advertisement
|
Materials: Transom-mount transducer
Fish finder
Pencil
Drill and bits
Screws
Silicone
Screwdriver
Countersink bit
P-Clamps
Clamshells
Wire fish
Electrical tape
Masking tape
Fish finder template
Saber saw
Dust mask
Safety glasses
14/2 wire
Razor knife
Wire strippers
Wire cutters
Electrical connectors
Torch
Spade terminals
Inline fuse
Miscellaneous electrical connectors
10-amp fuse Flush Mounting the Display Screen/Monitor Note: A lot of the popular model fish finders will give an option of either gimble mounting on a flat area on your dash or up on top of the center console. The other option is the one Greviskis chose for this particular project -- flush mounting the screen right into your dash or into an electronics box, which is a nice clean looking installation. - The manufacturer will provide a paper template that you'll tape down on the dash down.
- First, lay down several strips of masking tape onto the surface of the dash ( figure A) where you want the screen mounted. This will help keep the brittle gel coat from chipping when you go to make your cuts.
- Bring in the template and position it where you want it, and tape all edges of the template to the boat so that it's secure.
- Take a 3/8" drill bit and drill pilot holes in the four corners (figure B). You'll need an opening for a saber saw blade to get into for every corner.
- Tape off the metal faceplate on the saber saw so that you won't scratch up any of the boat's gel coat.
- You'll want to use a fine-tooth blade (figure C) because they work best when cutting fiberglass with a gelcoat surface.
- Saw the hole for the display screen by playing connect the dots on the template. Note: Be sure "not" to saw past the four mounting holes!
- Once the hole is cut, remove the masking tape.
- Countersink the four mounting holes.
- If needed, file the edges of the entire hole to create a smooth edge all the way around.
Note: If you're going to be flush mounting the electronics into the dash, be sure to use the gasket that's supplied by the manufacturer. The gasket will seal the dash from any water intrusion, which can lead to corrosion. - Before installing the screen, bring in the transducer cable and snap it into the configuration on the back (figure D).
- Do the same as the previous step for the power cord. Both the cable and power line will lock into place once you snap and turn them.
- On the back side of the power cables are a black lead and a red lead (figure E). Inside the center console of the boat is a fuse block that contains a 5-amp fuse. The red wire connects to the fuse block (figure F).
Note: If your craft doesn't have a fuse block, you'll need an inline fuse or a circuit breaker. - The black wire connects to the ground block (figure G).
- Now it's time to install the flush mounting bracket (or gasket) and screen into the dash. On the backside of the flange are four holes that have been pre-tapped with threads. Slide in the screen from the front of the console.
- Once the screen is in, secure it with four screws (figure H) that have been sealed with a marine-grade silicone -- to prevent corrosion.
- The only thing left to do is plug in the transducer and to select a fuse. What you're looking for is a fuse that has about 20 percent higher resistance than the 12 volt accessory that your trying to protect. With this fish finder drawing seven amps from the house battery, Greviskis chose to go with a 10-amp fuse and insert it into the holder.
| 
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
