DIY Network

1962 Fort T-Bird: High-Performance Carburetor From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-305

Steve Magnante finishes up the installation of the new high-performance engine modifications on the 1962 Thunderbird sports roadster.

In this segment, a high-performance 4-barrel carburetor gets installed on the 1962 Thunderbird.

Materials:

Carburetor upgrade kit and custom fittings
Temperature-sending unit
Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
Torque wrenches
Needle-nosed pliers
Pipe-bending tool

Safety Equipment:

Work gloves
Safety glasses or other eye protection

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

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	Figure A
	Figure B

Carburetor Upgrade

Thus far we've installed after-market aluminum cylinder heads and a high-flow aluminum intake manifold on the T-bird. With those installations complete, it's time to turn to the carburetor. Our Thunderbird's original four-barrel carburetor (figure A) is an Autolite piece, and not exactly for high-performance. We opted to upgrade it. In it's place we installed a 600 CFM 4-barrel carburetor (figure B).

"CFM" stands for cubic feet per minute, and 600 is the rating that this carburetor flows at wide-open throttle -- which is plenty for our 390 Thunderbird motor.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending on model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.
Steps:

• Begin by putting the carburetor studs onto the new intake manifold (figure C). To prevent debris from falling into the engine while installing the studs, cover the opening for the carburetor with a rag. Make certain that the studs bottom out fully and that each is seated firmly.

• Remove the rag, and install with the fresh carburetor gasket (figure D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  
• To install the carburetor, first check to be sure that the bottom surface is clean (figure E).

• Roll the carburetor over over and carefully position it on top of the gasket (figure F)

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  
• The carburetor is held down by four nuts. Tightening of the carburetor does require a little bit of finesse. It is possible to over-tighten these bolts, so very gently tighten down the nuts (figure G), following a crisscross pattern until each is just snug.

• The accelerator rod is attached to the carburetor and held in place using a cotter pin. With the rod in place, the bell-crank bracket can be installed in the pre-drilled holes in the manifold (figure H). This particular manifold actually has raised bosses that are drilled and tapped to accept all the stock parts.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  
• The throttle return-spring hooks are installed next. The primary return spring hooks at one end onto the carburetor bracket, and onto the bell crank at the other end. Use needle-nosed pliers to stretch and attach the spring at both ends (figure I).

• The secondary throttle return-spring hooks onto the lower bracket (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  
• With the springs installed, test the throttle by stepping on the gas pedal to make sure that the throttle control is reaching its full range of travel.

• The next step is to install heater-hose supply which, in this case, involves some items from the hardware store -- some brass fittings, a 90 degree union and nipple. These are all pipe thread fittings, and should simply be snugged down securely in the manifold.

• Install the temperature-gauge sending unit (figure K). This common part is available from auto-parts stores and auto centers.

• Finally, install the vacuum-T (figure L), which will provide vacuum pressure to the power-brake booster and allow the power brakes to work.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  
• The new 4-barrel manifold has an entirely different fuel-inlet location from the original. So our restoration expert Keller Wallace came up with a replica of the stock fuel line-- modified for a perfect fit with the new carburetor (figure M). The modified fuel-pump fuel line was made using standard 5/16-inch steel fuel line. We used a tubing bender to create the shape that was needed.

• The new induction system allows this Thunderbird to run cleaner. The original had a road-draft tube which basically let crank case ventilation get out into the atmosphere. By contrast, the new setup actually has a PCV valve (a positive crankcase ventilation valve), which is connected between the carburetor and the passenger-side valve cover (figure N). This modification actually reduces emissions.

  Figure M

  Figure N

  
  
• We opted to replace all of the old heater hoses with new ones. The new hoses are 5/8-inch heater hoses cut to the proper lengths.

• Connect a new section of hose to the newly installed fitting on the intake manifold, and secure it using a hose clamp (figure O).

• Our original manifold vacuum was in pretty bad shape, so we replaced it with a fresh piece of vacuum hose (figure P).

  Figure O

  Figure P

  
  

  	Figure Q
  	Figure R
  	Figure S
  	Figure T

• The final rubber-hose connection goes to the power brake booster (figure Q).

• With all the new hoses in place, the distributor can be installed. The new intake manifold comes with a fresh distributor seal for the distributor, so we used it to replace the old worn one (figure R).

• With the new seal secured, install the distributor, carefully lowering it into position (figure S).

• Connect the vacuum-advance line that leads from the bottom of the carburetor to the distributor.

• Install the distributor hold-down bracket and tighten it down.

• Reinstall the radiator surge-tank, secure it with its fasteners and re-attach its hose to the radiator (figure T).

• Reinstall the air-conditioner compressor stand. The stand bolts into pre-drilled holes in the engine head.

• Roll the a/c compressor right down onto it's mount, and bolt it onto its mounting plate.

	Figure U
	Figure V
	Figure W