DIY Network

1962 Ford T-Bird: Refurbishing the Drum Brakes From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-304

The newly refurbished drum brake.

In this segment, the Thunderbird's drum brakes are rebuilt and refurbished.

Materials:

Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
Air compressor and impact wrenches (optional)
Brake-shoe tool
Replacement wheel-cylinders
Brake-cleaning fluid
Lithium grease
Toothbrush
Rags
Mallet
Pry bar
Jack and jack-stands

Safety Equipment:

Work gloves
Safety glasses or other eye protection

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

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Refurbishing the Drum Brakes

It wasn't until 1965 that Ford offered a front disc-brake option for the Thunderbird. Our 1962 project car has the standard 11-inch drum brakes, but they were found to be "grabbing" during the test drive, and the car was pulling to the left under braking. In this segment, the Thunderbird's drum brakes are rebuilt and refurbished.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending on model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F

Steps:

• Starting with the left front wheel, remove the hubcap and lug nuts, and remove the wheel.

• Carefully lift the brake drum off the studs. Our old brake drum showed signs of considerable rust and scoring (figure A). There was also evidence on the brake shoes of leakage of brake fluid from the cylinders. This condition is likely what was causing the brakes to grab. We sent our brake drums to the machine shop to be "turned" -- i.e., reconditioned and resurfaced. If the drums had been severely damaged, we would have replaced them with new ones.

• Disconnect the shoe anchor-springs. There are two springs per side. Removing them will allow the brake shoes to be removed.

• Using a specialized brake-shoe tool (available at auto centers), loosen and remove the shoe hold-down spring retainers (figure B).

• Again, using the brake tool, remove the brake-shoe anchor springs, starting first with the primary brake-shoe side. Place the tool on the anchor pin, get it under the spring-end and roll the tool carefully (figure C) to remove the spring. Repeat the step for the secondary side.

• Remove the parking-brake self-adjuster link and cable. Remove the anchor bar and strut.

• With those parts off, the brake shoes can be removed. Inspection revealed substantial wear on our old brake shoes. In fact, these old shoes were made with rivets, and even the rivets themselves are worn down smooth (figure D).

• Remove the parking-brake actuation arm (figure E) by moving it back on the spring and snapping it apart from the parking-brake cable.

• We had indications earlier that the wheel cylinders were bad, as evidenced by signs of brake-fluid leakage on the inner surfaces of the tires (figure F).
  
  
• Remove the wheel cylinder by first removing the retaining bolts in the brake-backing plates (figure G) Since we know that our wheel cylinders are faulty, we replaced them with new ones. Replacing the old wheel-cylinders with new ones only costs around $25 per wheel.

• Once the wheel cylinder has been removed, clean the brake backing-plate using spray-on engine cleaner and an old toothbrush (figure H) and rags. Remove as much dirt and road-grime as possible from the plate.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  
  
• Once the backing plate has been cleaned thoroughly, re-assembly of the brakes can begin. Install the new wheel cylinder (figure I) by slipping it into the mounting hole and locking it down with retaining bolts from behind the plate.

• The plungers from the old wheel cylinders were still in good shape, so we reused them. Spray the old plungers with some spray lubricant, and slide them into position through the rubber cylinder-boot.

• The next major step in the re-assembly is installation of the brake shoe, but the parking-brake actuation lever from the old brake shoe must first be transferred onto the new one. Remove the small horseshoe-shaped clip, remove the old actuator, transfer it onto the new shoe and secure it with a new horseshoe-shaped clip (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  	Figure K
  	Figure L

  
  
• The brake shoes for each wheel consists of two components: a leading (or front) shoe and a trailing (or rear) shoe. The two can be distinguished because the leading shoe has a shorter friction surface. To secure the shoes, begin by installing the brake-shoe retaining nails from the back side of the backing plate. (There are two per side.)

• Install the leading shoe by first reattaching the parking-brake actuation lever to the parking-brake cable. Next, place the leading shoe in position by seating it onto the two brake-shoe nails (figure K). Secure the shoe by installing two hold-down spring retainers onto each nail.

• Reinstall the parking-brake strut. Then install the secondary brake shoe by slipping it into place over the brake-shoe nails, securing the parking brake strut, and securing the hold-down spring-clip retainers over the nails. Once those clips are installed, the new brake-shoes should both be securely in place (figure L).
  

  	Figure M
  	Figure N
  	Figure O
  	Figure P
  	Figure Q
  	Figure R

  
  
• The brake self-adjusters are inexpensive and should be replaced. Each adjuster is marked for the right or left side. Be sure to install them in their respective positions. Before installing each adjuster, spray some lithium grease on the shaft (figure M). Tighten the adjuster down all the way, then install them.

• Reinstall the top anchor plate by snapping it in position.

• Reinstall the parking-brake cable and guide, pulling the cable over to the anchor pin.

• Snap the bottom parking-brake retainer plate into position (figure N).

• Hook the primary shoes-spring onto the shoe and stretch it to the top of the anchor-plate. Likewise, hook the secondary shoe-spring onto the shoe (figure O) and stretch it to the anchor plate.

• Attach the bottom adjuster-spring to the shoe and retainer plate (figure P).

• With the brakes reassembled, spray the brake assembly with brake-cleaner and wipe it down to remove any dust, fingerprints, grease or other contamination. Do the same for the surfaces of the freshly turned drums before reinstalling them.

• Before reinstalling the drum, expand the brake-shoes outward by turning the star-adjuster (figure Q).

• With the brake adjuster expanded part-way, test-fit the drum. If the drum still feels loose, continue adjusting the shoes outward until you achieve a good fit between the shoe and drum.

  Tip: When it becomes difficult to turn the star-adjuster by hand, you can continue to tighten as necessary by inserting a brake-spoon from behind the backing plate.

• With the drum on, and the shoes adjusted properly, you should feel a small amount of drag when you turn the wheel. Once you achieve a good fit, reinstall the drum (figure R).

• Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts.

• Repeat the steps for the brake assembly on the other side.
  
  

RESOURCES :

Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
Model: 1850108900
Author: Lindsay Porter
Order this book from Amazon.com
Haynes Publishing

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
Author: Dan Ramsey
ISBN: 0028635833
Alpha Books

Auto Repair for Dummies
Author: Deanna Sclar
ISBN: 0764550896

Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
1557881944
Jim Richardson
(November 1994)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
H.P. Books