DIY Network

Chevy S-10 Truck: Steering Linkage & Idler Arm Repair From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-305

	Host Bruce Bonebrake replaces the tie-rods and other front-end components on a Chevy truck.
	Bruce tightens the tie-rod nuts.

In this episode, Weekend Mechanic host Bruce Bonebrake addresses front-end problems on pickup trucks. He looks into problems like play in the steering and pulling to one side while driving, diagnoses the problems and undertakes the necessary repairs. In this segment, he completes the repair on the truck's steering linkage and idler arm.

DIY Difficulty Rating for Repair: This job is relatively straightforward for the experienced automotive do-it-yourselfer, but requires some special tools and experience. We gave it a difficulty rating of 3 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale.

Materials used in this episode:

In addition to standard auto-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.), some of the specialty tools that will be needed for this project include a ball-joint press, brake-fluid bleeder with reservoir, forked pry-bar and a heavy-duty vise.

Note: An air-compressor and set of pneumatic tools is fairly important for this project since some of the spaces are very tight, and there is little working-room for using hand-wrenches.

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Steering Linkage and Idler Arm

• After spraying down the tie-rod ends with spray lubricant, work can begin on the steering components. Begin by disassembling the steering dampener, which is held in place by a stud and nut on one end, and a bolt and nut on the other. This part is used on 4-wheel-drive vehicles to stabilize the front end. To remove the steering dampener, loosen the bolt-end first (figure A), then loosen the castel nut (figure B) after removing the cotter pin.

• Drive the stud out by tapping it through with a hammer.

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  
• With the old steering damper removed, we could see that not only was the seal leaking, but the bushing was failing as well (figure C).

• For this truck, the replacement steering damper (figure D) must have a tapered attachment at the upper end that matches the hole where it installs.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  
• To install the new damper, tighten down the stud-end first, and install a new cotter pin (figure E).

• Important: Never re-use old cotter pins. Bending them repeatedly for removal will weaken or break the pins. Always replace an old one with a fresh pin to avoid failure and costly repairs.

• Tighten the bolt-end of the dampener using an air wrench.

• Next, install the replacement idler arm. We opted for one that was more heavy-duty than the original. For now, simply loosely bolt the arm to the frame (figure F). It will be aligned and tightened later.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  
• The idler-arm stud end has a ball-and-socket joint (figure G) that is tightened to the steering linkage by a castel nut. Insert the new cotter pin to prevent the nut from turning.

• Now the idler-arm mounting bracket can be tightened securely into place (figure H).

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  
• We replaced both the inner and outer tie-rod ends. These can be replaced right on the truck, without removing the entire assembly. Begin with the inner tie-rod end. Remove the nut that holds the inner tie-rod stud (figure I).

• With the nut removed, force the stud from the steering linkage using a forked pry-bar (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  Figure K

• The new tie-rod end is screwed onto the adjusting sleeve in about the same position as the old one (figure K).

• Note: The tie-rod can be lengthened or shortened to adjust wheel alignment.
  
• Tighten down the securing clamp (figure L). This clamp prevents the tie-rod adjustment sleeve from loosening and forcing the wheels out of alignment.

• Reinstall the inner tie-rod end back on the truck (figure M).

• Secure the end with a bolt and nut, and insert a cotter pin into the nut.

  Figure L

  Figure M

  
  
• Remove the outer tie-rod end from the spindle, following the same procedure that was used for the inner end. Measure it for length, and install a new outer tie-rod (figure N). Keeping the linkage measurements about the same keeps the wheels in fair alignment until a professional alignment can be done.

• Tighten down the stud (figure O) and secure it with a cotter pin.

  Figure N

  Figure O

  
  

  Figure P

• Once the new assembly is installed, it should be able to swivel and achieve full-travel (figure P). Recall that the worn-out assembly was "locked out," and couldn't swivel properly. The assembly needs to be able to swivel like this to compensate for irregularities in the road surface -- especially important for 4-wheel-drive vehicles.
  
• The final steps in the process involve the brake system. First, install a new brake rotor. Once the new rotor is installed, apply high-temperature brake grease to the caliper and spindle to ensure that the caliper can slide back and forth.

• Bolt the new caliper on using caliper bolts that have been lubricated and sealed (figure Q).

• Attach the new brake hose (figure R).

  Figure Q

  Figure R

  
  
• Once the new hose is attached, bleed the brake lines to remove air bubbles (figure S).

• Refill the brake master-cylinder with brake fluid to replace any fluid that was lost through bleeding (figure T)

  Figure S

  Figure T

  
  

Important: Included in this segment are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of repair-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with pneumatic or power tools.

RESOURCES :

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
Author: Dan Ramsey
ISBN: 0028635833
Alpha Books

Auto Repair for Dummies
Author: Deanna Sclar
ISBN: 0764550896