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  • Drum-to-Disc Brakes Conversion, Part 4
  • Bleeding the Brakes
    From "Tricked Out"
    episode DTRK-210


    PHOTO
    PHOTO

    Braking enhancements under the hood include a new Acura-built brake master-cylinder, brake booster and distribution block.
    NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

    In this project, Tricked Out host Andrew Totolos upgraded the brakes on a 1997 Honda Civic with new and restored Acura Integra parts. With the replacement brake-assemblies, master cylinder, brake booster and distribution block all installed, the upgrade is essentially complete. In part 4 of this project, Andrew buttons things up by bleeding the brakes and topping off the system with new brake fluid.

    Materials used for bleeding the brakes

    In addition to standard auto-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, torque wrench, etc.), tools and materials used in this episode include:

    Small, clear rubber hose
    Replacement brake fluid
    Clear plastic bottle
    Line wrench

    Important: Always dispose of hazardous chemicals responsibly. Many auto centers have automotive-fluid disposal and recycling centers.

    Safety Alert: As a standard safety precaution, always wear eye protection when working with hazardous chemicals.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    One last step while the car is still on jack-stands: bleed the brake lines.
    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    Bleeding the Brakes

    With all of the brake-upgrade components installed, the last thing to do before reinstalling the wheels and tires is to bleed the brake lines.

    The role of brake fluid in the braking system is to transfer the slight pressure from your foot into braking power on the ground. If there is air in the brake lines, this process can't work properly. Bleeding the brake lines means ensuring that the lines are filled with fluid, and that there are no air bubbles. Here are the basics steps.

    • The first step is to top off the reservoir on the master cylinder (figure A).

      Important: It's essential to keep the reservoir filled at all times during the bleeding process to keep new air from entering the system.

    • Attach a small, clear rubber hose to the bleed nipple at the brake farthest from the master cylinder, and then dip the other end of the rubber hose into a bottle containing brake fluid (figure B).

    • Have a friend to pump the brakes several times and then hold steady pressure.

    • Loosen the nipple slightly and you should be able to watch the air bubble out through the brake fluid in the line (figure C).

    • When the fluid stops flowing (figure D), close the bleed nipple and have your friend pump the pedal again.

    • Repeat the process until no more air bubbles can be seen.

    • Don’t forget to refill the reservoir as necessary to keep new air from entering the lines.

    • Once the first brake is bled, repeat the process for the rest of the system, working your way toward the master cylinder one brake at a time.

    • Once all the brakes have been bled, put the wheels back onto the car. Before jacking the car off the stands, get back under the car and torque all the bolts.


    Safety Alert: Your brake conversion is now complete. As with any new brake job, take it easy at first. Take a slow test drive to make sure that your new brakes are working properly.
    Photo
    Photo

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    Cut To The Chase

    For measured results of what we accomplished with this upgrade, here are some relevant stats with regard to 60-to-zero braking:

    • BEFORE the modifications: 133 feet
    • AFTER the modifications: 113 feet

    That's an improvement that you can feel.

    The Bottom Line:

    $300 Salvaged parts
    $180 Slotted rotors
    $30 Brake pads
    $7 Brake fluid
    $100 Brake lines

    Total = $617

    Tricked Out Tip: Because all of the wheels were removed for this brake conversion, the wheels should be professionally realigned. Take your vehicle to a tire center for realignment. It's not expensive, and it's worth it to ensure a smooth ride. In fact, this is a good rule to follow any time you do any significant brake or suspension work on your vehicle.

    Important: Included in this summary are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of upgrade-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs or upgrades, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.


    RESOURCES :

    Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guide: Import Cars (Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guides)
    Author: Joe Pettitt
    Order this book from Amazon.com.
    Voyageur Press (October 2000)
    ISBN: 1884089526


    Honda & Acura Performance Handbook (Performance Handbooks)
    Author: Mike Ancas
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    June, 1999
    Publisher: Motorbooks International
    ISBN: 0760306699


    Honda/Acura Engine Performance: How to Modify D, B and H Series Honda/Acura Engines for Street and Drag Racing Performance
    Author: Mike Kojima
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    April 2002
    Publisher: HP Books
    ISBN: 155788384X


    Honda/Acura Performance Handbook: High Performance Modifications for Street and Drag Racing Applications
    by the editors of Sport Compact Car Magazine
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    November 1999
    Publisher: HP Books
    ISBN: 1557883246

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: