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  • Drum-to-Disc Brakes Conversion, Part 2
  • Rear Brake-Assembly Swap
    From "Tricked Out"
    episode DTRK-210


    PHOTO

    The project car: 1997 Honda Civic hatchback.
    PHOTO

    New slotted rotors are added to the salvaged brake assembly for enhanced stopping power.
    NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

    In this episode of Tricked Out, host Andrew Totolos upgrades the brakes on a 1997 Honda Civic with a restored disc-brake system salvaged from an Acura Integra. In part 2 of this project, now that the salvaged parts have been cleaned and assembled, and the new high-performance brake rotors in place, the reconditioned brake assemblies can be swapped out with the factory brakes.

    Materials used in this episode:

    In addition to standard auto-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, torque wrench, etc.), tools and materials used in this episode include:

    Salvaged Acura disc-brake assemblies
    Slotted rotors
    Replacement brake pads
    Brake master-cylinder
    Brake power-booster
    Brakes distribution block
    Degreaser
    Brake cleaner
    Braided steel flex-lines
    Sandpaper
    Wire brush
    Masking tape
    Wire hanger
    Caliper paint
    Drop cloth
    Brake fluid
    Small bucket
    Clear hose
    Clear bottle
    Line wrenches
    Pneumatic tools
    Floor jack
    Jack stands; wheel chocks

    DIY Difficulty Rating for This Project: We gave this a difficulty rating of 4 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale.

    Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools or pneumatic tools. Also wear eye protection any time you are working underneath a vehicle.

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    PHOTO

    Figure A
    Replacing the Drum Brakes

    • This project requires that the car be raised on jack stands (figure A). Before jacking up the vehicle, be sure that your work surface is a completely level and smooth floor. Put the car in low gear and use wheel chocks to hold the car in place.

      Safety Alert: Never work under any car that is supported only with a jack. Auto-jacks--even the really good ones--are designed for lifting, not for supporting the vehicle while you work. Make certain that your jack-stands are rated for the weight of your vehicle, and check your vehicle owner's manual for proper support points.

    • With the car securely on jack-stands, work can begin on removing the parking-brake cables. You'll need to get under the car to find the two metal mounting points on the chassis close to the fuel-tank. Once you've located the attachment points, unbolt the parking cable mounts (figure B) and pull the cable free.

    • Next, lay a drop cloth and a small bucket underneath the brake lines and use a wrench to separate the hard line from the flexible line at the body mount. Once the lines are separated, release the flex line from the mount by removing the clip (figure C).
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


    • With the cables released and brake line detached, the next step is to get the rear suspension and drum brake assembly out of the car. Remove the two bolts on the outer end of the lower control arm. One is connected to the trailing arm, and the other connects the rear shock assembly to the lower arm.

    • Remove the two bolts that hold the upper control arm in place and remove the arm.

    • Go under the car and remove the bolt that connects the front compensator arm to the chassis.

    • Support the trailing arm with a floor jack so it does not hit the floor (figure D) and remove the two main bolts that hold the main trailing arm on the chassis. Be sure to hold the arm while you remove the last one, then lift the assembly out of the car (figure E).
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E


    • With the old assembly removed, it's clear to see from comparison that the two assemblies are compatible (figure F). Now you're ready to install the newly reconditioned brake-assembly, complete with new rotor (figure G).
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


      PHOTO

      Figure H
      PHOTO

      Figure I

    • On a floor jack, position the trailing arm, lift it up, and bolt it into the upper control arm finger-tight just to hold it in place.

    • Next, bolt the front compensator arm to the chassis and torque it to 24 foot-pounds.

    • Torque-tighten the upper control arm to the chassis at 26 foot-pounds (figure H).

    • Then bolt the lower end of the shock assembly to the lower control arm (figure I) . Tighten those bolts to 24 foot-pounds each.

    • Use the jack to lift the assembly again. Then attach the bolt that connects the lower control arm to the lower end of the trailing arm.

    • The last thing to bolt into place is the main trailing arm and all the bolts are in place.

    • Connect the braided steel flexible brake line to the original hard brake line (figure J) and replace the metal cap that holds the brake line in place.

    • Repeat the swap to that point on the other side, and then you can reinstall the parking brake cables underneath.

    • Lubricate the cable grommets slightly (figure K) so that they will push into the oval holes easily, then screw the mounting brackets back down.
      Photo

      Figure J

      Photo

      Figure K


      PHOTO

      Figure L
      PHOTO

      Figure M

    • Inside the car, install the parking brake cables to the parking brake equalizer. They should simply turn sideways and slide right into position (figure L).

    • Install the two bolts on the metal bracket securing the brake cables (figure M).

    • Reinstall the center console.

    That completes the actual brake-assembly portion of this project. But to maximize braking performance, we'll take this upgrade a couple of steps further. In the segment that follows, we go under the hood to replace the brake master-cylinder, power-booster and brake-fluid distribution block.

    Important: Included in this summary are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of upgrade-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs or upgrades, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.


    RESOURCES :

    Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guide: Import Cars (Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guides)
    Author: Joe Pettitt
    Order this book from Amazon.com.
    Voyageur Press (October 2000)
    ISBN: 1884089526


    Honda & Acura Performance Handbook (Performance Handbooks)
    Author: Mike Ancas
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    June, 1999
    Publisher: Motorbooks International
    ISBN: 0760306699


    Honda/Acura Engine Performance: How to Modify D, B and H Series Honda/Acura Engines for Street and Drag Racing Performance
    Author: Mike Kojima
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    April 2002
    Publisher: HP Books
    ISBN: 155788384X


    Honda/Acura Performance Handbook: High Performance Modifications for Street and Drag Racing Applications
    by the editors of Sport Compact Car Magazine
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    November 1999
    Publisher: HP Books
    ISBN: 1557883246

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: