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  • Mitsubishi Big-Brakes: Removing the Old Brakes
  • From "Tricked Out"
    episode DTRK-109


    PHOTO

    Our project car already features a full body-kit, fiberglass spoiler and plenty of vinyl body graphics.
    PHOTO

    Prior engine modifications include a short-ram intake, custom-painted valve cover and color-matched split-loom.
    PHOTO

    According to SSBC Brake specialist Bill Cummings, bigger rotors provide greater friction area, reducing brake-fade; larger calipers offer more clamping force which results in shorter stopping distances.
    In this episode, Andrew Totolos tricks out the braking system on a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS with the help of brake-specialist Bill Cummings. The Eclipse already has very adequate braking, but "bigger brakes" means better stopping power, so we up the ante with massive 12-inch rotors. Andrew also installs a new set of wheels and tires.


    In this first segment, host Andrew Totolos introduces our project car -- as well as Bill Cummings of Stainless Steel Brake Corporation. Cummings assists in the installation of the new front-brake system. Work gets underway as Bill and Andrew remove the old brakes and ready the car for the new high-performance brakes.


    Materials and tools used in this episode:

    Stainless steel brake-kit including:

  • 12" rotors
  • Calipers
  • Caliper bolts and pads
  • Flex hoses
  • Brackets
  • Clips
  • Nuts and bolts
    To remove old brakes:
  • Jack and jack-stands
  • Drop cloth and penetrating oil
  • Vacuum caps
  • Tin snips
  • Protective gloves
    To install new brakes:
  • Brake fluid
  • Brake cleaner
  • Rags
  • Safety glasses
  • Line wrench
  • Torque wrench
  • 3/8" Allen socket
  • Standard shop tools
  • Cup and clear hose for brake-bleeding
  • Lug nuts


    DIY Difficulty Rating for this Project: This job is a medium difficulty project, and will generally require two people. We gave it a difficulty rating of 2 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale. All the parts you'll need come together in the kit. The more complex parts of this project may be dealing with fluids and hoses. If you've done a brake job before, you should have no problem with these upgrades.

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    PHOTO

    Massive 12-inch rotors mean stop-on-a-thin-dime braking power.
    According to SSBC Brake specialist Bill Cummings, bigger rotors provide greater friction area, thus reducing brake-fade. Larger calipers offer more clamping force which results in shorter stopping distances. The net result may be a 15 to 50-foot drop in stopping distance in a zero-to-sixty stop. Here's how to get started with the upgrade.

    Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of repair-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.

    PHOTO

    Figure A
    Removing the Old Brakes


    • First, get the car up on jack-stands to remove the wheels (figure A).

    • Safety Alert: Wear safety glasses for your protection, and put down a drop cloth to protect the ground from spilled fluids. Always dispose of brake fluid and other automotive fluids responsibly. Most auto center have fluid-recycling centers.


    • Spray all of the mounting hardware with penetrating oil (figure B).

    • Using a tube wrench, loosen the hard line from the flexible hose at the connection point (figure C). Then unscrew the nut that holds them together.

    • With the hard lines removed, brake fluid will just drain out of these lines. You can use plastic vacuum caps to plug off the end of the line. Aside from avoiding mess, this is very important because you don't want the master cylinder to go dry. If it goes dry you'll pull air into the system from the top, which will cause problems when it's time to bleed the brakes. If it happens, you'll have to push that air through the entire system to get it out this end.
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


    • With the caps in place, you may now remove the brake components. The flex hoses need to be removed first. There are two clips holding these into place. First, remove the one at the caliper connection with pliers (figure D).

    • The other one requires a bit more effort. Use a screwdriver as a lever to get it loose, and then pull it out with pliers.

    • The flex hose then just lifts up and out (figure E).

    • Drain this hose into a container so that you don't get brake fluid everywhere.
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E


    • There are two long caliper bolts holding the caliper into place. Remove them both (figure F).

    • Then lift the caliper assembly out of the way.

    • Once the calipers are out of the way, remove each of the two brake pads.

    • The calipers sit on a mounting bracket. There are two bolts that have to be taken off of this for the bracket to be removed (figure G).
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


    • With the bracket removed, you can just slide the rotor off (figure H).

    • The last step is to remove the splash shield. There is one bolt that holds the shield into place. Take that bolt off first (figure I), then take some tin snips and cut the thinnest portion of the metal shield. It may take some brute strength to pry the shield off.
      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I


      PHOTO

      Figure J
      PHOTO

      Figure K

    Once our brake rotors were removed and inspected (figure J), we noticed that they had previously been cross-drilled, presumably for racing. Though this may enhance racing performance, it weakens the rotors and can ultimately result in stress cracks and unsafe braking conditions if the car is used for road driving. Our new performance rotors have integral slots (figure K) which achieve the benefit of cross-drilling but without compromising the structural integrity of the rotor.

    In the segment that follows, Andrew and Bill install the new brake components.


    RESOURCES :

    Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guide: Import Cars (Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guides)
    Author: Joe Pettitt
    Order this book from Amazon.com.
    Voyageur Press (October 2000)
    ISBN: 1884089526

    Special Resources for Tricked Out, episode 109

    Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation (SSBC)
    Website: www.ssbrakes.com

    Racing Innovations, Inc.
    Website: www.racinginnovations.com

    ALT Wheels
    Website: www.altwheels.com

    The Fusion Zone
    Website: www.thefuzionzone.com


    GUESTS :

    Bill Cummings
    Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation (SSBC)

    Website: www.ssbrakes.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: